Langyaw: Mt. Bulusan: Through a Lake, Mossy Forest, and Leeches

I had never been stressed hiking until I climbed Bulusan volcano (see travel notes below). Hiking is something that I do whenever I feel like taking some time off, so the stress I felt on the way to Bulusan's crater was something unusual. But it was also expected.

Years ago, I read up on Bulusan and found out it is the 4th most active volcano (after Mayon, Taal, and Kanlaon) in the country. It last erupted in 2011 and is closely monitored by volcanologists. Climbers are not allowed to stay longer than 15 mins at the crater for safety reasons. Even with the latest technology, it is impossible to predict when the volcano will erupt again. It has an elevation of 1565 masl, and, therefore, no easy climb. Based on the pictures I had seen of it, hiking it would be a treat. With Bulusan lake at its foot and the smaller Aguinay lake at the camp site, nature lovers would have a great time.

Starry sky over Mt. Bulusan's peak. View from the campsite.

What made all that useless for me, at least before the climb, was the information about limatik (blood leech) along the trail. So, when the first plan to hike to its crater got canceled, it was relief and not disappointment I felt. My fear of these blood suckers is beyond irrational, and that is why I stay away from mountains like Makiling and Halcon. Imagining them on me is like imagining my navel being dissected with me being conscious during the entire process. It's unthinkable!

View of Mt. Mayon's peak from Bulusan's summit

But this year, the plan pushed through and a lot of things happened that made this terrifying climb easier to start and a lot more exciting. For one, Wildboars Philippines, the organization that's spearheading the tourism of Bulusan Volcano, is doing such a great job of organizing the activities there. The hikes are monitored (using two-way radios; one is with the guide), so you can rest assured that you are safe. I got in touch with them weeks before the climb, so I could go with a group to share the expenses (guide and porter fees) with and to meet other hikers. The fact that I was climbing during the Holy Week means this would not be a problem. After they had confirmed that there was a group (of 3) I could join, I signed up. That means, there would be 5 of us, including a friend I was making the trip with.

And because the group arrived later than expected, I had time to go around Bulusan lake. There's a trail for those who are not interested in seeing the crater but would like to do some hiking. This trail (about 2.5 km) goes around the lake, through Bulusan's thick forest. On the way were wild flowers, lizards, ferns, orchids, creatures and plants I have no idea about, and moss. While doing this trek, I could not stop thinking about the leeches, though we were told there were none around the lake. I could just not be too sure.

The three (Zaine, Jod and Jim) we were hiking to the crater with arrived a little before 3pm. Our guide immediately started the orientation using a diorama of the whole of Bulusan. The volcano spans five Municipalities, covering some 3673 hectares. Then, we went across the lake on a Kayak, which, by the way, is one of the highlights of the trek. We started hiking around 3:30 and got to the camp site ten minutes before 6pm. It was a pretty fast hike, considering Zaine, Jod and Jim didn't have enough sleep the night before. As for myself, I hiked fast thinking that I could outpace the limatik.

It was a stressful trek for me, especially, after I saw some of the blood suckers latched on leaves along the trail. Our guide's account of how one of these disgusting creatures got into a hiker's eye made the whole thing worse. I was very careful never to touch anything along the way, never to brush any part of my body with the leaves, and I came prepared. I wore my hat, rash guards exposing only my face and my hands. I wore shoes, too, and left my hiking sandals behind. I brought with me tons of Off lotion and alcohol in case these hungry pests get their way into me. It was difficult to enjoy the view with the anxiety that any moment, I could lose all of my blood to these pests. Imagine me all dried up and wrinkly!

It was terrible hiking with thoughts of leeches at the back of my mind. But I got to the campsite in one piece and without a single limatik on my skin. I will forever consider this a hiking achievement!

The camp site is a large clearing, flat, just two hours away to the summit and its ground is sandy. There is a cottage where you could cook your meals and tables to eat on. It's cold and windy, but if you forgot your jacket, I think you could still sleep through the night, albeit not deeply.

The trek to the summit, which we did the morning after, was no walk in the park, but not too difficult either. I think that if we had had our heavy stuff with us, it would have taken us twice as long (it took us a little over two hours).

When we woke up that morning, it was raining and the mist was everywhere. The drizzle went on even after we had started our climb, so we had expected that we would not see any view at the crater. It would also be impossible for us to wait for the sky to clear up once we get there, since we are only allowed 15 mins (30 mins max) at the crater and are strongly advised to start going down after. We pushed through, nonetheless.

If not for Zaine's relaxed pace on the way up, we would have missed the beautiful view at Bulusan's crater. A few minutes before we got to the peak, the sky started to clear, a sea of clouds forming on one side, showing a beautiful view of the coast of Matnog and Barcelona on another and offering a peek at Mayon's summit on the opposite side. These were all for us for a good 20 minutes, and the crater started to be enveloped in mist again. Thanks to Zaine's foresight and impeccable timing, indeed, we got the bonus for the trek!

On the way back to the campsite, we passed by Aguinay lake- a very placid lake that's beautiful to look at. You can find edible ferns around, which you can use as ingredient for a scrumptious salad (good with tomatoes and kalamansi).

After lunch, on our way down to the lake, we made a detour to plant trees, which is required of hikers. This was a nice touch by the organizer, spreading awareness to everyone that sets foot on the mountain about the importance of caring for the environment. Instead of boring lectures about how essential reforestration is, we were made a part of the effort.

After having known how beautiful Bulusan is, with its mossy forest, interesting flora and fauna and the amazing view at the crater, I am willing to subject myself under any stress any time. Blood leeches are scary and I still cringe at the thought of them. However, I think a trek through a virgin forest, romancing summits with clouds that form like a sea of cottons, a view of coast lines with their white beaches and meeting interesting people and making new friends are more than enough for me to brave past any blood sucker.

I am glad I faced my fear for a trek to Bulusan volcano.

My little friend.

---o---

Special thanks to Zaine, Jod and Jim for letting us tag along.

Travel Notes:

Bus Terminal: DLTB, RSL, Philtranco, etc

- We took RSL. They accept reservations.
Fare: starts at 900 to over a thousand pesos, depending on where you get off and what type of bus. We took the one that's got lazy boy seats.
- If you could not get a bus directly to Sorsogon City, you can get off in either Naga City or Legaspi City, then take vans or Jeepneys to Sorsogon or Matnog, then get off in Irosin.
- From Irosin, take the tricycle to Bulusan lake. Tricycles at the highway charge Php 300 one way. However, the tricycle driver we met at Irosin's public market, who also offered his place to stay for two nights for free, told us that the fare should only be Php 20 per person (local fare). Don't take tricycles at the highway, walk to the public market, as we did, and look for tricycles that can take you to the lake for a much cheaper rate.
Travel time (Manila to Sorsogon City): 12 hours
- We took the bus to Naga (8 hours from Manila), then took another ordinary bus (bound for Matnog) to Irosin (5 hours)
Fare (Naga to Irosin): Php 250

Irosin to Bulusan
Fare: Php 20/person (local fare)
Travel time: 30 minutes

Bulusan National Park
- If you are not for trekking all the way to the crater, you can just go around the lake. They have made it into a natural park. Families can go around for a nice walk. Some just go kayaking on the lake, others just go there for a picnic.

Trek To Bulusan
- Contact Wildboars Philippines (wildboarsphil@yahoo.com) before the climb, to check if there are slots for your group, and to pay registration fees. There are also other things that must be done before you are given clearance to climb, like getting permits (from the police, phivolcs and LGU), which will be taken care of by Wildboars. You will be asked for photos that will be used for your ID.
- Before the climb, there is an orientation that will be given by your guide.
- The people at the reception hall at Bulusan lake can cook lunch or breakfast for you at affordable prices. You may also cook there if you want.
- You may stay at Bulusan lake overnight if you arrive earlier than schedule. That way, you can save accommodation expense.

Guide and porter fee (required): Php 1700
Registration Fee: Php 250
- With this, you can use their very clean bathroom, trek around the lake, you will receive an ID that you can use for your next visit and, a laminated certificate. If you go back to Bulusan Volcano with another group of first-time hikers, your registration will be free (just bring your ID, which is valid for a year)

Bulusan lake to ranger station: 2 km; this took us 45 mins
Ranger station to Campsite: 4 km; this took us 1 hour and 30 mins
Campsite to Summit: around 2.5 km; took us 2 hours and 15 mins.

Note: Wildboars Philippines are doing a great job. They monitor the guides and hikers using radios, ensuring that they arrive at the campsite and back at the lake safely.