Limasawa: Beyond Beaches and History

History class must have been ages ago for I could only remember that Magellan had landed in Limasawa in the 16th century. I didn't know that he'd landed on a Holy Thursday and celebrated the first mass on an Easter Sunday. And I had no idea that this claim is being contested by two other provinces.

But I did not go there to dabble in history (see travel notes below). I went there to be away from the city into a place that’s not frequented by people on vacation. And, that is not to say this was a trip for the birds, either. Limasawa is a place that does not need to have white beaches or interesting tourist spots for anyone to love it. Being there is the reward.

It was late in the afternoon when I got to Limasawa's Triana port. The first thing that I noticed was the certainty that sundown there would be explosive! The port is clean, facing west towards the setting sun, made more stunning by the line of coconut trees on one side and rocks washed by the turquoise waters of Limasawa. The other side is a line of fishing boats, making the entire scenery more romantic than any sonnet Shakespeare could have ever envisioned. I wish I had stayed a little longer until the last of the sun had gone below the horizon.

Limasawa is quiet . Electricity is available only between 5pm and 1am. It is the perfect place to rest after days of hiking and traveling. It was no easy feat getting to this island from Bulusan volcano in Sorsogon, so it was a relief to be by the sea, in a sleepy island. In the mornings, after I make my coffee, it's a joy to just sit outside staring at the sea. The cottage at the resort where I stayed at is so close to the water that, at night, when I sleep, it feels as if the cottage is standing right on top of it.

There is not much to do in the island. And there lies its beauty. It was easy to just stare past the sea, all the way to the visible island of Mindanao from a distance, and leave my mind blank.

Limasawa has that effect on anyone. And this trance-like state extends to every time I see the fishermen unloading their boats, kids jumping into the water, or women sweeping their yards. Watching how life takes its turn in the island makes me wonder how peace could be so elusive when it seems that simple to achieve.

The site of the first mass is a well-maintained park by the local government in cooperation with Department of Tourism. I particularly like the short orientation given by the tourism officer there, who talked about Limasawa's history. The island got its name from the fact that Rajah Kolambo had five wives. There was a sixth, but according to legend, she is from another world. He welcomed Magellan and had himself converted to Christianity. What would have happened if the rajah went for the fairy instead of the western religion?

I went up the concrete steps leading to where the first cross Magellan planted in the country. The cross was damaged by the recent typhoon, however, leaving only the vertical post. The local government and Tourism department will replace it soon with a sturdier and luminous cross. I also checked the grassland just past the monument to get a top view of the coastline.

I hired a motorbike to take me from Dakdak to San Agustin, where the lighthouse is. I went through the only road that cuts Limasawa from north to south, passing by Triana with its fantastic shore line. I got to see the cove that had been forgotten, probably because one had to climb down through a narrow trail of rocks. But the rock formations and the water made me forget the difficult way down and, then back up, later.

The lighthouse, in spite of the many I had seen, still amazed me. From the cliff where it stands, you can see the sea below with colors ranging from emerald green to deep blue. I sat there and listened. The chatter of fishermen, of women hanging their laundry and the excited screams of children are beautiful accompaniment to the sound of waves rolling to shore. 

Site of the first mass

I stayed in Limasawa for two days, but it was enough to see how this island could enchant. The beaches are neither as white nor as fine as other more popular ones, but the water is riveting. Its color almost haunting.

Two days was enough to think of what had been and what should be in the quiet of the island. Its history a soft hum in the background as one surveys his own. Understanding deeper, forgiving more.

I hesitated putting on my shoes the morning I left Limasawa. I was not sure I was ready to leave its peace and simplicity, but I had to be. Definitely, this island- the birthplace of Christianity in the country- ceases for me to be just historical but is also one for poets and for the broken who seek strength.

View from Triana Port

Travel Notes:

How to get there
Jump off to Limasawa is the municipality of Padre Burgos in Southern Leyte. To get there, you can either go through Maasin or Tacloban by van or bus. I took the Maasin route for I would be coming from Ormoc.

Ormoc to Maasin
Terminal: Ask around for the terminal of van/bus to Maasin (I suggest you take the van, as it is faster)
Van fare: Php 130
Travel time: 2.5 hours

Maasin to Padre Burgos
Fare: Php 30
Travel time: If you take the bus, it will take you two hours. The multicab takes just an hour.


Padre Burgos to Limasawa
Fare: 50
Travel Time: 1 hr
Motorbike (habal-habal): Php 15/person (from one Barangay to a nearby one)

Note: There are three trips to and from Limasawa except on Sundays, when there is only one at 3:30pm (from Padre Burgos)

On other days, the boat schedule is below. Schedule could change so be in Padre Burgos early.
From Padre Burgos:
Mon to Sat: 8am, 12nn and 1:30pm

From Limasawa:
Monday to Sat: 6am, 6:15am, 6:30am

In Limasawa
Accommodation: There are very few places to stay in Limasawa, but I recommend Dakdak Beach Resort. They have cottages for Php 500/night and rooms for Php 1000/night. I liked their cottage because it's very near the beach.
- You may cook your meals or ask Nanay to cook for you.
- She does not sell alcoholic drinks and is thinking about banning it in the resort.
- You may contact her at this number: 09155203660

*You may walk from Dakdak to Magallanes where the historical site is.
*At the park, don't miss the grass land just past the big cross. There is a very nice view of the coast of Limasawa there.
*Buy your supplies in Maasin or Padre Burgos. Although there are stores  in Limasawa, their stocks could be limited.
*There is electricity only in the evening from 5pm to 1am.