Kalanggaman Island and Her Stories

I didn't mean to see Kalanggaman. At least, this was not what I had in mind when I planned my trip.

I was going for Sambawan island in Biliran, Leyte. But while in Limasawa, I figured I would not make it in time for the last ferry that would leave for Maripipi (the jump-off to the island).

But with only two nights left before vacation is over, I crammed searching for other places and considered going for Kalanggaman again. I excluded it from my itinerary, since there are no passenger boats going to the island. Hiring a boat would would cost me at least Php 3000 (see travel notes below). If I were with a group, this would be fine.

But I decided I should take a chance. I called up Palompon's tourism office, who is also in charge of arranging the boat rides to the island. I asked about the possibility of tagging along with a group going there. I got lucky for there are 11 groups bound for the island and spending the night there, and sure, I could go with one of them. So, I traveled around 5 hours from Southern Leyte, then waited for the group at the tourism office. I even found time to buy supplies at the supermarket for the overnight stay.

We left for the island a few minutes past three, making me a little apprehensive about the waves. Afternoons at sea, based on experience, is not the best time to travel aboard a small boat. I read that the tourism office does not allow trips to the island in the afternoon precisely because of the waves, but I guess it is a different matter during the peak season.

We got to Kalanggaman an hour later. But whatever took place before that was momentarily forgotten, even the waves, yes. I doubt I would be able to find anyone with words that could precisely describe how beautiful the island is. Stunning would not be accurate, but it's the closest I could find. It took me seconds to get my senses back and look for a spot to camp.

Kalanggaman is a very small island, and it's right to have a limit on the number of people staying there (for day trips and overnight). The main part is filled with newly-grown coconuts (Yolanda wiped the island clean) and other trees. Its sand is fine enough for me to be worried about my camera when the wind blows. There are parts that are coarse, with fragments of coral rocks still in the process of disintegrating into sand. Its water reminds me of jade shining in the sun. Its famous sand bar is surrounded by clear blue-green water on both sides. When I saw the island, I knew I was right to be there.

I was setting up my tent when the sun started to set. I didn't pay much attention to it having seen
beautiful sunsets in places I had been to. I was more worried about the drizzle becoming soft rain. After making sure everything's safe inside the tent, I went to take pictures of a full rainbow that had formed over the island. I don't remember having seen anything like it. They had either been half-formed or or just a quarter of what I would draw as a kid. This one started in the water on one side of the island going up then down to the water on the other side. This was a spectacle!

On my way back to my tent, I noticed the sky on the west turning orange, a sign that the sun had started the show. I was going to pass, but when I caught a glimpse of it, I ran to the rocky side of the island to get a good view. This time, nature beat me. All I wanted to do, then, was look at the sun slowly fading. It looked like a small orange globe sinking at the horizon with the sky looking like a canvass where somebody had scattered a palette of red, blue and orange tones. It was almost too late when I realized I had to take a photograph. I took one, and it was nothing compared to what I saw.

But Kalanggaman offered more than the amazing colors of its waters, the rainbow and the sunset. It gave more than the fine white sand. The group I went there with turned out to be interesting people. Some of them are from Palompon and the rest from General Santos City. I learned that Palompon has other interesting places to see- caves, bird sanctuary, and mountains to trek. But what is touching is how they recounted their experience when the super typhoon Yolanda ravaged their homes. Though it must have been a terrifying experience for them, they told us the story in a manner that only standing comedians can deliver, making it a less horrifying story. One of them, minutes after the typhoon had passed, noticed a friend's house without a roof. She called the friend's attention to it, but was instead told to look at her house. It was gone. All of it except the floor. Another regretted not having packed up the night before the typhoon because when the strong wind came, it left just the room they were sleeping in, exposing their mosquito nets, hung underwears and other stuff no one else should see. In their anecdotes, Yolanda did not seem as powerful to me as she had on TV. These people, as I came face to face with their resilience, know how to pick up their lives and move on. They had learned a lot from the experience but they refuse to be defined by its horrors.

The guys from Mindanao, on the other hand, showed us pictures of the amazing beaches and waterfalls they have there. They even invited us to a rave party that is set to take place in Saraggani bay in May. This is a much awaited event, which draws some hundreds of thousands of people every year. They promised us a spot at the beach, which gets filled with tents and party-goers on the day of the rave.

I wasn't able to take a lot of pictures of the island because of the rain. We did not have blue skies. But what made this island even more beautiful to me, in spite of the weather, are the stories. About how a priest (the group I tagged along with is celebrating his ordination) used to make a stop at this island to take a break from fishing all morning, when he was a young boy. About how they had thought it was the end when Yolanda came, but still found a funny way to tell it to us. About how Mindanao had treasure places that remain to be discovered. And about how Kalanggaman was a beautiful stop, as we took a break from whatever journey each of us were in.

If missing boats would turn out like this every time, I see no reason to mind.

Thanks Rhona, Emir, Mansor and Romelie!

Travel notes:

*Palompon is the jump-off point to the island. You can take vans or buses from Ormoc, but vans are advisable as they are faster.

Fare: (van) Php 130
Travel Time (Ormoc to Palompon): 2.5 hours

*Before going to the island, make sure to contact their tourism office @09173037267. It is important that you do, since the island has a limit on the number of people going there. They will also be the one arranging the boat for you.
*Details of the boat rates and other fees may be found here. If you are traveling alone, you could tag along with a group that's going there, but this is not always assured.
*It is possible that the tourism office will not allow you to leave so late in the afternoon, so it is better if you arrive in Palompon early.
*There are no stores in the island. Bring your own food, water and other things you need.
*When I was there, there were no rooms to sleep in. Only cottages where you could put your food and stuff. However, it is the plan to put up some cottages to sleep in.
*Bring your own tent.
*The restrooms in the island are surprisingly clean.
*Bring enough drinking water. Two containers of fresh water for cooking/rinsing will be given to each group. If you think that is not enough, inform the tourism officer.

Tourism Center, which also serves as the terminal
for the boats to the island

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