I wanted to take advantage of the four-day weekend, so I knew that I would have the chance to get away from the stressful life in the city.
I thought a visit back to the north would be exciting. Baguio- Sagada- Banaue- Batad- Cambulo would be a good destination. I was not able to really explore these places back in 2006.
There is only one bus line (Ohayami) with trips going to Banaue, so expectedly, it was already too late to go to its terminal and wait for seats to open. (Yes, once again, I did not buy my tickets in advance, knowing that the entire Philippines would be on vacation during this four-day weekend.) I took my chance at Victory buses in Cubao. Luckily, I only had to wait in line for four hours (yes, this is luck).
So the plan was, I go to Baguio get on a jeepney to Sagada. From Sagada, head for Bontoc, then to Banaue, Batad then, finally, to Cambulo. Well, Cambulo never happened. I ran out of time and budget.
When I got to Dangwa terminal in Baguio to get on a jeepney/bus that would take me to Sagada, I was informed there was only one trip that day (which had left an hour before I got there). You see, the drivers were also on holiday on Nov 1. I just really got lucky there were other people who missed this very important piece of information, so we decided to rent a van instead (but we had already wasted about 2 hours before we finally left for Sagada and what would normally cost Php 250, cost 500).
So here are my travel notes:
1. Manila to Baguio
Terminal Location: Victory Liner Terminal in Cubao, along EDSASchedule: There is a bus leaving every hour. During peak season, it is better if you have already bought your tickets days in advance. There are two stops before arriving in Baguio.
Travel Time: 6 hours (The bus took a different route, that's why.)
Fare: Php 445
Tips:
- Get your luggage stored in the bus compartment for a more comfortable seat, but don't forget to take out your sweater or anything that can keep you warm.
- On regular days, the last trip leaving for Sagada is 1pm, but on Holidays (Nov 1, Dec 25, Jan 1, Holy Week), there could be just one trip for the day or nothing at all.
- If you have time to spare, you can go around Baguio for a tour. Camp John Hay would be a good destination.
2. Baguio to Sagada
Terminal Location: Dangwa Terminal (From Victory Bus' terminal, we took the cab going to Dangwa station, since the distance is not that comfortable to walk, especially, with some heavy luggage to carry).Schedule: First trip is at 7am, last trip at 1pm. I suggest you be at the terminal no later than 9am just to be sure. There is at least one stop before arriving in Sagada
Travel Time: 6 hours
Fare: Php 250
Tips:
- If you are taking the bus, expect it to be cramped and far from being leisurely.
- Take the window seat if you can to take advantage of the beautiful view on the way, but if you have fear of heights, I suggest you find a seat where you will not be able to see anything outside. :)
3. In Sagada
Accommodation
Ganduyan- Php 200 per person (no hot water, common toilet and bathroom). If you want your own bathroom that's got hot water, that's 700 for the room.- This place is not bad at all, but if you want to be with fellow travelers, Masferre, might be the place for you. It's just down the street intersecting the road that goes from East to West. Or you could just ask around. People there do not hesitate to help travelers.
Activities
-Guide fee is 400 per person if you are doing the cave connection, and only 2 people are allowed for every 1 guide.
-If you are not up for the challenge, you can do Sumaguing cave only.
-There are a lot of activities there: Trek to a mountain, a visit to Lake Dannum for the sunset view or to meet the sunrise at Kiltepan, Zip line, white water rafting, many more. To know all the activities and the fees involved, you go to SAGGASS office, just a few meters away from Masferre, and inquire. They will look for available guides and suggest activities for you.
NOTE: After settling in at the hotel, go to the tourism office. They will give you a map and all information you need. You also need to pay registration fee (Php20).
- The activities and guides are centralized and organized by a group of guides together with the department of tourism, so it is much better if you coordinate with them, as these guides are trained well. You might be able to find somebody that's not associated, but safety might be an issue.
Food
- Standard price per meal ranges from 100 to 120 pesos.
- Brewed Sagada coffee is good, and only costs 25 to 30 pesos.
- Pinikpikan is a delicacy, but I did not try this.
- Vegetables are fresh!
- Sagada prices for drinks like Gatorade, mineral water, sodas, are not overpriced. It's one of the few tourist desitanations in the country, which does not impose laughable prices on
goods.
Climate
- Cool to Cold. After sunset, it was quite uncomfortable to be staying outside without a sweater.
- I was still able to take shower without hot water, though, but only in the evenings. I would be very impressed if you could do that in the morning.
Tips/Trivia
- Sagada used to be called Ganduyan. The story goes, "One fine day during WW2, a Japanese soldier arrived in the village and met a fisherman carrying a fishing pole. The soldier asked what the place was called. Not knowing what Japanese was really saying, the fisherman thought that he was asking about the fishing pole, and said, "Sagad". The soldier said, 'Sagada', after the fisherman, and henceforth, the place has been known as Sagada." This story needs to be verified, though, as I am not sure if that 16-year old guide was merely pulling our leg or telling historical accounts he got from his ancestors.
- If you are lucky to be able to befriend a local, you could ask him if he knew of any dance rituals, weddings, etc, and have yourself invited. It's fantastic being able to see how their traditions still live on. The first time I was there I got invited to a wedding, and was even asked to dance with them the traditional way. The last time, our guide invited us to Begnas festival (a ritual for a good harvest).
- You can rent (motor)bikes there, too, for Php 800/per day.
More on Sagada here.
4. Getting to Banaue/Batad from Sagada
Sagada to Bontoc
Terminal Location: In front of St. Joseph's Inn. Just ask for the jeepney that's going to Bontoc.Schedule: First Trip leaves at 6:30am
Travel Time: 1 hour
Fare: Php 80
Bontoc To Banaue
Terminal Location: Ask around
Schedule: First Jeepney Trip leaves at 7am, First bus trip leaves at 7:30am. The next one is at 10am, and the last one is at 1pm.
Travel Time: 2 hours
Fare: 120
Tips
- Get to the terminals as early as you can, as buses/jeepneys could leave earlier than scheduled.
- There are bus/jeepney schedule and fares posted in the inns and tourism office of Sagada, so you should be able to plan your trips from Sagada to either Baguio or Banaue via Bontoc well.
- You could be a little pressed for time for the Sagada-Bontoc-Banaue connections, so hurry. Make sure to get on the 1st or 2nd trip to Banaue from Bontoc if you do not want to lose a lot of time. There are only up to 3 or four trips going to Banaue every day.
Banaue to Batad
Travel Time: 1 hour
-You can get on a jeepney going to Batad junction, but then this is still about 3km to the "Saddle". Some tourists walk from the junction to the Saddle, others rent a jeepney from town proper, which usually costs Php 2000, but you could haggle for a lower amount.
- We got lucky, though, and found a jeepney that asked only 500 pesos, I guess, because he was on his way to Batad himself.
5. In Batad
Accommodation
Simon's Inn- 200 per person, room's got two separate beds, common bathroom, with hot water
- There are many accomodations in Batad. There are even native huts that cost 600 per night.
Activities/Tips
- Trek to Tappiyah falls.
- If you get your guide from the saddle, fee is 700. If from Batad Tourist information Center, it's just 500, but that means you will have to trek down from the Saddle to the village all by yourself, which is not a problem as there is only one trail going down. You cannot possibly be lost. Besides, you will meet other tourists on the way. In fact, I think that you do not really need a guide to get around Batad, even to get to Tappiyah falls, as it is very easy to find. The trail can't be missed, and there are people around you could ask for directions. A guide would be good if you have kids or if you think you have a problem trekking up and down. I made a mistake of having a guide to Tappiyah falls, since we were all very able hikers, and the spot was not hard to find. My suggestion is from the saddle go directly to the village, find an accommodation, then try exploring the village without a guide.
6. Batad back to Banaue
- First Jeepney leaves at around 9am from the saddle but be there an hour early.- Tourists pay more than the locals (Php 150).
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I was supposed to stay overnight in Cambulo, but I ran out of time and budget. From Batad, Cambulo is a two/three-hour hike (4 kilometers away). It was such a disappointment, as I remember loving my stay in this quiet village. I was also hoping that this time around, I would be able to take pictures of the place, but maybe next time.
Well, if I am climbing Amuyao again, I will make sure to stay the night there.
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See more of my other travels here.
Interested in traditional Kalinga tattoo? Find out how here.
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Is it possible to go to batad and leave on the same day?we just want to see the rice terraces..please reply at rhea.sarceno@yahoo.com salamat
ReplyDeleteThere are not a lot of jeepneys going to Batad and back. First trip back to Banaue was at 9am, but be there earlier. There is another trip at 11am, but I am not sure if they have this regularly. You can hire jeepneys to bring you and back, but this could be pricey (some ask Php 2k). Of course you can always haggle. I wrote about the jeepney because leaving batad on the same day is dependent on that. IF you mean how big Batad is, I think you can pretty much circle the place in just 4 hours or less.
Deletehi thanks for this post. I'm doing my own back packing around the same route you did here. Just a question, From Batad is there a direct route going to Kalinga?
ReplyDeleteFrom Batad, I an not sure. I know there's one from Bontoc to kalinga. There might be rides from Banaue. If none, I suggest you get to Bontoc then ride to Kalinga. Enjoy the trip and let me know the route you take. :)
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